[Home] → [Tech: Wood]

Wood impregnation, making wood look old, bleaching and darken wood, wood granite & more

Nails in wood

By first dipping the nails in a 15% solution of rosin in benzene and allowing them to dry, they adhere considerably better in wood.

Non-combustible impregnation of wood

Sodium Acetate 15
Water 85

Sodium Acetate 22
Disodium Phosphate 3
Water 75
The wood is smeared three times with this solution on both sides. The solution is allowed to soak in well between operations.

Making wood look old

With simple means you can make new wood looking older and give it an antique look. The drier your wood is, the better you will succeed. Because to age your wood and make it look antique, you need liquids. Dry wood absorbs those liquids better.

You can also give wood a really lived through looking outlook. In that case, before you start working with liquid, you will first deliberately damage your wood. Hit it with a chain. Or you can go crazy with a steel brush. A wire brush in an angle grinder or drill gives a fantastic result.

Or you temporarily hammer in a few rusty nails. Not quite, but half. You turn the protruding part so that the head of the nail makes a good impression in the wood. After a few nights, outside in the rain, the rusty imprint is clearly visible in the wood. Nice! Let it dry well first.

If you happen to have an air rifle at home, you can shoot some bullets into it. Otherwise, grab a board with some nails driven through it and give your wood some merciless blows. So....... that's a relief!

With rusty nails, awl and wire brush you can turn newly purchased planks into weathered and aged wood.

You can also achieve a nice effect with a paint burner.

Wear always safety goggles and safety gloves when you are going to work with wire brushes and machines. A good dust mask is also a must, because you don't want to inhale the fine wood dust that is released.


The final result of a hard work

Bleaching wood [1]

With simple means you can bleach new wood and give it an antique look. You can bleach almost all types of wood. Make sure that your wood is completely dry, because then you will achieve the best result.We bleach wood by treating it with water peroxide and ammonia in succession. Please read the safety instruction below first.

With wood that contains a lot of resin, the surface must first be de-resined. You can do that with wood soap or thinner.

Woods that contain a lot of tannin, such as oak and sweet chestnut, turn dark if they are treated with only ammonia. With ammonia dissolved in hydrogen peroxide, these types of wood actually color paler.

Working with ammonia and hydrogen peroxide
It all seems very exciting because of the chemicals. Still, it's relatively easy to do.

  • For bleaching wood, use hydrogen peroxide (30% - 35%) and ammonia (30% - 35%).
  • For application, use a plastic brush without a metal sleeve or other metal.
  • We do not recommend using a piece of fabric wrapped around a stick as an alternative brush. Due to the chemical reaction between the substances you use, it can catch fire. If you do it this way, keep a bucket of water nearby and dip your homemade rag brush in it as soon as you're done.
  • After the treatment, the chemicals should be rinsed out as well as possible with clean water.
beitende stof
Wear protective gloves
As long as you observe a few rules, working with corrosive substances does not have to be dangerous. Wear protective gloves and, if necessary, goggles and appropriate clothing. Work in a well-ventilated environment.

Some important points

  1. Most types of wood can be bleached with only hydrogen peroxide in concentrated form (for example 30%).
  2. A single type of wood, such as oak, is better bleached with a diluted solution.
  3. To obtain a better and faster reaction, the hydrogen peroxide can be used in combination with ammonia. Then the bleaching goes much deeper. Even discolorations caused by, for example, blue mold or cover slats are sometimes bleached away.
  4. If necessary, make a small test piece first.
  5. If oak and chestnut wood has discolored due to the action of iron on the tannic acid present in the wood, the method below is not suitable.

Method 1
(small objects)

  • Put some hydrogen peroxide (30%) in a glass jam jar and add 3 to 10% ammonia (35%). Immediately treat your wood with this because of the chemical reaction that has occurred in your jam jar. The longer you wait, the less your mix will work. So this method only works for small objects.

Method 2
(large objects)

  • With larger workpieces, it is better to let the chemical reaction take place on your wood. Generously brush the surface with hydrogen peroxide (30%)
  • Immediately afterwards, brush quickly and lightly with ammonia (30%) that you have first diluted 1:1 with water.
  • Now that the hydrogen peroxide and the ammonia only come into contact with each other on the wood, you get the best possible bleaching effect.
  • The more you dilute the ammonia, the weaker the bleaching effect. With undiluted ammonia you get an accelerated reaction and a strong bleaching effect.
  • At room temperature, the entire bleaching process will take about 12 hours. Then leave the wood for another 24 hours before you want to work it further. You can repeat the bleaching process one more time if you want it even lighter.
After a drying time of at least 24 hours, you can remove the swollen wood fibers by lightly sanding. If you want to stain, your wood may have to dry a little more.

Do not finish your bleached wood with alkyd based products. This wants to react with any residual water peroxide left behind and will discolour the wood strongly. Finishing with products based on acrylic resin is possible.

Wood can always change color later. Even back to the original color. If you want to make sure that the color of your wood stays the way you made it for as long as possible, you can treat it with a product that contains a UV filter.

Wear protective gloves, safety goggles, possibly a protective apron and work in a well-ventilated area. For hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, read the manufacturer's safety instructions on the packaging.

Darken oak wood

Smoked oak wood
You can easily darken oak wood yourself with a simple process, what they call: 'smoked oak wood'. Actually it is very simple. You allow the vapor of ammonia to react with the tannic acid present in oak wood. This method only works with untreated 'bare' wood. It should also work with chestnut wood, which also contains a lot of tannic acid.

How to do it
All you need is a bottle of ammonia from the local supermarket and a large plastic container. You put the pieces of wood to be colored in there and also place a container with a good dash of ammonia. Now cover things well and after half a day of waiting, you can take a look.

The ammonia will have largely evaporated, so the remaining liquid in the container will mainly consist of water and you can throw it away. The vapor has done its job and darkened your wood. Want it even darker? Then you just repeat the whole process.

Attention! Make sure the vapor can reach all areas of the wood. Do not place the container with ammonia on the oak wood. You can put the oak itself on thin sticks. Either you take some old planks, put some screws through them and place them upside down, with the screw points upwards, on the bottom of the box. You put the wood on this. This way the ammonia can reach your wood everywhere.

Making a large oak object dark, such as a cupboard or a door, is also possible. You can build a 'tent' around it with some sticks and plastic foil and carry out the above process. If necessary, place an extra container of ammonia.

Ammonia vapor hits your throat. Protect your breath! Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, such as under a carport, shed, or garage.

Bleaching of wood [2]

The wood is first carefully cleaned. Then wash off with water, soap and soda and rinse with clean water.

After this, one can whiten with:
1. Saturated solution of oxalic acid (poison) in warm water. The solution is brushed in well. The operation can be repeated at intervals.
2. Bleach, which can be purchased ready-made or made from bleach powder and soda solution. Dissolve 5¼ dl soda ash in sufficient water and, in addition, 2½ dl chlorinated lime in water. The two solutions are then mixed, the precipitate is allowed to settle and the clear solution is decanted. The solution is applied hot.
3. A solution of 5 g of potassium permangate per liter of water, followed by a solution of sodium sulphite or bisulphite. Optionally, post-bleaching with a 5% solution of oxalic acid is possible.
.4. A 10 pc solution of sodium hydrosulfite.

After bleaching, the wood must always be thoroughly washed with clean water. After alkaline bleaching agents, a little vinegar is added to the first washing water.

Black stained veneer

The veneer is dipped in a warm solution of nigrosine in methylated spirits, after which it is allowed to dry. The operation is repeated until the wood is sufficiently black.
Staining with a nigrosine solution in water is quicker.
Bleaching of pine wood
Bleaching of pine wood

Wood Granite (floor)

Wood granite is an artificial stone, consisting of magnesite and magnesium chloride and fillers based on cellulose. Wood granite was mainly used for seamless floors, until the 1950s and 1960s. After that it fell into disuse. Wood granite is applied in a thickness of 50 to 80 mm and can also serve as an underlay for parquet or carpet.

When a magnesite floor is installed directly on a concrete floor, the reinforcing steel can be affected. Without a sealing top layer, the floor turns white when it is scrubbed with soap.

A magnesite floor has some exclusive properties:

Usually, a wood granite floor consists of two layers, a base layer and a top layer, which are composed slightly differently.

Base layers:
A. Normal:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Moist sawdust 15 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 25° Bé 4 parts by vol.
B. For damp floors, sound-absorbing:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Wet sawdust 12 parts by vol.
Carbolineum 1,5 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 15° Bé 5 parts by vol.
C. For damp floors, not sound-absorbing:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Snail grit 12 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 18 Bé 7 parts by vol.
D. For very dry rooms:
Burnt magnesia 4,5 parts by vol.
Sawdust 13 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 18 Bé 7 parts by vol.

Top coatings:
A. Warm and Stretchy:
Burnt magnesia 7 parts by vol.
Wood flour 6 parts by vol.
Cork scrap 5 parts by vol.
Kieselguhr 2-3 parts by vol.
Pigment ⅔-2 parts by vol.
Impregnating oil 1 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé 5,5 parts by vol.
B. Warm and Hard:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Wood flour 12 parts by vol.
Pigment ⅔-2 parts by vol.
Talcum 1 parts by vol.
Impregnating oil 2 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé 6 parts by vol.
C. Moderately warm and moderately hard:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Wood flour 6 parts by vol.
Asbestos fibers 6 parts by vol.
Kieselguhr 1 parts by vol.
Pigment ⅔-2 parts by vol.
Impregnating oil 1 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé 5,5 parts by vol.
D. Moderately warm and hard:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Asbestos fibers 12 parts by vol.
Kieselguhr 1 parts by vol.
Pigment ⅔-2 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé 5-6 parts by vol.
E. Cold and rock hard:
Burnt magnesia 6 parts by vol.
Stone flour 10 parts by vol.
Asbestos fibers 2 parts by vol.
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé 4-6 parts by vol.

The mixing of the ingredients must be done very carefully. The concrete surface must be perfectly clean. It is good to coat them with a thin paste of magnesia and water. However, the wood granite must then be applied before this layer is dry.

Iron must be well insulated, with asphalt paint or better by wrapping it with jute and impregnating the jute with asphalt.

Since wood granite is generally sensitive to moisture, it is best to treat the floor with a wax solution, i.e. polishing wax, or with linseed oil.

Furthermore, it is possible to improve the wood granite considerably in this respect by adding 5 to 10% copper powder to the mass.

If marble particles are added, the floor resembles terazzo

An insulating layer of tar paper has been applied under the wood granite. The wood granite clamps itself to the diagonally arranged hardwood slats.

The maintenance of parquet floors

Turpentine oil 65
Terpinole 5
Derris root 3
Pyrethrum blossoms 3
Heat on a water bath and let it steep for an hour. Then add:
Pinene Chlorohydrate 15
Bornyl Acetate 5
Zinc resinate 10

The mixture is allowed to stand in a warm place for several more days, stirred from time to time and then filtered. The preparation can be used for all wooden floors, it penetrates into the wood and into the seams, disinfects the floor and the evaporating components disinfect the air.

By dissolving 2% beeswax and 4% carnauba wax or 8% I.G., wax V in the preparation, it also gives a shine to the treated wood.

disclaimer | w3schools | GFDL | GoodFon.com | pixabay | lookandlearn.com | pexels |pinterest | pxhere.com | unsplash.com
We decline all responsibility with regard to errors in the information, in the translation, possible harmfulness of mentioned substances and possible harmful consequences of working with these substances or of following the translated recipes on this website. For more information you read the disclaimer.
copyright © 2023 -
mixandstir.com - all rights reserved