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Metals and alloys, coloring of metal, protection against corrosion, rust removing & more...

Alloys (easy melting)

Lipowitz metal
Cadmium	3 dl
Tin	4 dl
Bismuth	15 dl
Lead	8 dl
Merge these together and then add:
Quicksilver	2 dl
The melting point is 61℃

Rose's metal
Bismuth	2 dl
Lead	1 dl
Tin	1 dl
The melting point is 93℃

Fusible link alloy
Tin	94 dl
Lead	344 dl
Bismuth	500 dl
The melting point is 75℃

How to do:
When making these alloys, the lead is first melted together with the bismuth. The tin is then added while stirring well. The temperature should be kept as low as possible, as cadmium in particular has a tendency to burn.

Delta metal

Copper	55	,80	dl
Zinc	40	,07	dl
Lead	1	,82	dl
Iron	1	,28	dl
Manganese	0	,96	dl
Nickel	0	,05	dl
Phosphorus	0	,01	dl
The zinc is melted, 5% ferromanganese or mirror iron is added to the molten zinc, followed by the other ingredients such as pure copper and brass. Usually a small amount of copper phosphate is also added.

German silver

Copper	8		dl
Zinc	3	,5	dl
Nickel	4		dl

Easily pourable:
Copper	8		dl
Zinc	6	,5	dl
Nickel	3		dl

Hard lead
Lead	84		dl
Antimony	16		dl

Letter metal

Lead	55	dl
Antimony	30	dl
Tin	15	dl
or:
Lead	80	dl
Antimony	20	dl
or:
Lead	100	dl
Antimony	30	dl
Copper	8	dl
Bismuth	2	dl
Tin	20	dl
Nickel	8	dl

Brittannia metal

Tin	90		dl
Antimony	10		dl
or:
Tin	88	,5	dl
Antimony	7	,1	dl
Copper	3	,5	dl
Zinc	0	,9	dl

Cliché metal

Tin	48	dl
Lead	32	dl
Bismuth	9	dl
Antimony	11	dl

Gold brass

Copper	77,75	-84,50	dl
Zinc	15,50	-22,25	dl

White brass

Copper	46	,5	dl
Zinc	53	,5	dl

White gold

First an alloy is made that consists of:
For soft gold:

Gold	37		dl
Nickel	38	,1	dl
Copper	16	,4	dl
Zinc	7	,1	dl
Manganese	1	,4	dl

For hard gold:
Gold	37	,4	dl
Nickel	44	,5	dl
Copper	5	,0	dl
Zinc	11	,1	dl
Manganese	2	,0	dl

This first alloy is then melted together with three times the amount of fine gold.

Aluminum bronze

Aluminum	90		dl
Copper	10		dl

Bearing bronze

• Car bearing:
Copper	90	dl
Tin	10	dl
• Locomotives:
Copper	82	dl
Tin	10	dl
Zinc	8	dl
• US Railroads:
Copper	77	dl
Tin	8	dl
Lead	15	dl

Bronze plain bearings

Bell bronze

Copper	80		dl
Tin	20		dl

Japanese bronze
Copper	76	,60	dl
Tin	4	,38	dl
Lead	11	,88	dl
Zinc	6	,53	dl

Medal bronze
Copper	90		dl
Tin	10		dl

Magnolia metal
Lead	40		dl
Antimony	7	,5	dl
Tin	2	,5	dl
Bismuth	0	,125	dl
Aluminum	0	,125	dl
Graphite	0	,25	dl

Bearing metal

• Standard:
Tin	83	,3	dl
Antimony	11	,1	dl
Copper	5	,5	dl
• Hard:
Tin	77		dl
Antimony	15		dl
Copper	8		dl
• Cheap:
Tin	42		dl
Antimony	16		dl
Lead	42		dl

• Car bearing:
Tin	89		dl
Antimony	7		dl
Copper	4		dl
• Locomotives:
Lead	65		dl
Antimony	25		dl
Copper	10		dl
• Babbit:
Lead		dl
Antimony	7		dl
Tin	21		dl
or:
Lead	77		dl
Antimony	23		dl

Bearings locomotive

Carburizing steel

Small steel objects can be superficially post-hardened by bringing them together at high temperatures with substances that readily release carbon. The objects are polished and then put in a drum with some oil and enough bone charcoal. The drum is heated to about 400℃ while rotating.

Coloring of metals

The result largely depends on the preparation. The metals must be clean, well polished and free of grease. Polishing is done with rotating silver or brass brushes and with rag discs. Sometimes very nice results can be achieved by treating the metal with the sandblast before coloring, sometimes also after coloring. In general, metals are colored by superficially converting them into oxides or sulphides.

Patina

Over the years, often centuries, a dark green layer commonly known as patina develops on the surface of bronze and bronze-like alloys. This layer is created under the influence of carbon dioxide and moisture and protects the underlying metal against further attack by oxidation. Pliny already mentions substances with which the formation of this patina can be accelerated. One worked either with oil and ointment or with a liquid consisting of green chips, alum, urine and plant glue. Resin and essential oil, onion juice and washing water from sheep's wool were also added.

Before coloring metals it is absolutely necessary to clean the surface completely. It is washed with lye or solvents, cleaned with brass brushes and often acid-pickled. After cleaning, the workpieces may no longer be handled with the hands, but only with pliers.

Tinning of screws

Aluminum sulfate	15	dl
Acid potassium tartrate	15	dl
Tin salt	4	dl
Water	1000	dl
The solution is placed in a zinc pan and the screws are boiled for 45 minutes. The bath must be restarted for each portion of screws. The gloss can be increased by polishing the tin-plated screws in a drum with hardwood sawdust.

Coloring tin black

The tin is first thoroughly degreased in a boiling solution of potassium hydroxide and then, after rinsing in hot water, immediately dipped into the following bath:
Hot water	1000	dl
Antimony chloride	45	dl
Cupric chloride	90	dl
Leave the object in the bath until it has reached the desired color and then rinse well in hot water.

How to color silver black

Potassium, sodium, ammonium or calcium sulfide in ½ to 1 pc solution. The silver is dipped into the hot solution. With a cloth disc, the raised parts can be polished from gray to completely white.

Coloring aluminium black

Water	1000	dl
Sodium hydroxide	125	dl
Table salt	30	dl
The aluminum is immersed in the almost boiling solution for a quarter of an hour, rinsed well with clean water and then dipped into the following bath:
Hydrochloric acid	1000	dl
Ferrous sulfate	125	dl
Arsenic	100	dl
Water	1000	dl
The aluminum remains in this bath for only a few seconds. Then rinse well with hot water.

Antique green on copper

Copper nitrate	125	dl
Nitric acid	30	dl
Water	1000	dl
The naphta is heated to 80℃ and then the aluminum stearate is dissolved in it. After everything is well dissolved, the glacial acetic acid is added while stirring well. A clear viscous solution is obtained. The solution is carefully sprinkled onto the previously wetted object.

Antique green on brass

Sodium thiosulfat	60	dl
Lead acetate, nickel sulphate,
iron nitrate or iron chloride	15-60	dl
Water	1000	dl
or:
Sodium bisulphite	30	dl
Lead Acetate	12	dl
Water	1000	dl
or:
Copper sulfate	15	dl
Iron sulfate	15	dl
Ammonium carbonate	15	dl
Water	1000	dl

Coloring of copper

- brown:
Potassium chlorate	8 dl
Copper sulfate	30 dl
Water	1000 dl
The solution should be hot. Wet with a scratch brush. If the color is uneven, repeat and dry brush.
- dark reddish brown:
Copper sulfate	30 dl
Nickel sulfate	15 dl
Potassium chlorate	8 dl
Water	1000 dl
- bronze, chocolate brown and black:
Potassium sulfide	10 dl
Water	1000 dl
The longer the copper remains in contact with the solution, the darker the color becomes, eventually black.
- black:
Caustic soda 10 %	1000 dl
Potassium persulfate	10 dl
The lye is brought to a boil and at the same time as the objects to be pickled are dipped in, the potassium persulphate is added to the bath. As soon as the oxygen evolution ceases, a new amount of potassium persulphate must be added. For yellow copper and aluminum bronze the lye is taken 10 pct, for red copper and other copper alloys the lye is taken only 5 pct.

Coloring copper and brass blue

Selenic acid	6	dl
Copper sulfate	12	dl
Nitric acid	2	dl
Water	1000	dl

Coloring brass black

- method 1:

Copper carbonate	750	dl
Ammonia	150	dl
Water as much as necessary.
- method 2: A saturated solution of copper acetate is mixed with enough ammonium carbonate until the brass in the solution soon turns black at ordinary temperature.
- method 3: Ammonia is saturated with copper carbonate.
- method 4:
Sodium thiosulfate	60	dl
Lead acetate	30	dl
Water	1000	dl
The last three solutions should be used hot. After coloring, the metal must be painted.

Coloring brass red

Copper cyanide	22	dl
Zinc cyanide	4	dl
Sodium cyanide	34	dl
Sodium carbonate	8	dl
Potassium Sodium Tartrate	15	dl
Water	1000	dl
The object is suspended as a cathode in this solution, electrolyzed at 40℃ with a current of 0.6 A per square decimeter with pure copper as anode. A sufficiently thick layer is allowed to form, which can be pickled with acid.

Incense burner red brass

Coloring zinc

Since the compounds of zinc are almost all white or colorless, another metal must be applied either electrolytically or chemically. By first copper-plating the zinc, it can then be further colored as copper.

Glossy black

Nickel ammonium sulfate	60	dl
Zinc sulfate	8	dl
Sodium sulfocyanate	15	dl
Water	1000	dl
The zinc is converted into a cathode.
or:
Dip for 5 seconds in:
Sodium hydroxide	30	dl
White antimony trioxide	4	dl
Water	1000	dl
The solution is heated to 70℃.
or:
Dip for 30 seconds in:
Nickel sulfate	75	dl
Sodium sulfate	110	dl
Ammonium chloride	12	dl
Boric acid	15	dl
Water	1000	dl
With the help of these solutions one can obtain different shades. The objects must be varnished or oiled. Outdoors, the colors are not durable.

Coloring iron

- coloring iron black:

Bismuth chloride	20	dl
Sublimate	40	dl
Copper Chloride	20	dl
Hydrochloric acid	120	dl
Alcohol	100	dl
Water	1000	dl
or:
Copper nitrate solution 10%	700	dl
Alcohol	300	dl
or:
Sublimate	50	dl
Ammonium chloride	50	dl
Water	1000	dl

- coloring iron brown:
Alcohol	45	dl
Ferric chloride solution	45	dl
Sublimate	45	dl
Saltpeter spirit (nitrite in
alcohol)	45	dl
Copper sulfate	30	dl
Nitric acid	22	dl
Water	1000	dl
or:
Nitric acid	70	dl
Alcohol	140	dl
Copper sulfate	280	dl
Iron filings	10	dl
Water	1000	dl

- coloring iron blue:

Ferric Chloride	400	dl
Antimony Chloride	400	dl
Gallic acid	200	dl
Water	1000	dl

- coloring iron bronze:
Manganese nitrate sol. 10%	700	dl
Water	300	dl

- How to do:
The iron is smeared with the solution using a piece of cloth. After this, it is allowed to dry for a few hours, the rust is removed and rubbed again. The operation is repeated until the desired color is obtained. Iron can also be colored by dipping it in molten sodium nitrate or a mixture of sodium and potassium nitrate. Brownstone powder can also be added to the melt. Furthermore, especially in instruments, the iron or steel is allowed to turn blue. To this end, it is heated to 320℃ in air.

Coloring iron and steel black

Selenous acid	6-10	dl
Copper sulfate	10	dl
Water	1000	dl
Nitric acid	4-6	dl

The selenous acid and the copper sulphate are first dissolved separately in half of the water, then the two solutions are mixed and the nitric acid is added. By immersing the iron objects in the solution for only a short time, they can be colored from yellow to pink to violet and blue.

Coloring steel blue-black

The object is dipped in molten sodium nitrate for 2-3 minutes at 370° to 425°C. It is allowed to cool slightly, washed in hot water and greased with lubricating oil or linseed oil.

Copper sulfate	3	dl
Ferric Chloride	90	dl
Hydrochloric acid	24	dl
Water	1000	dl
The objects are left in the solution for several hours, then allowed to dry for 2-3 hours and the objects are again dipped in the solution for 15 minutes. After this, they are allowed to dry for 10 hours, placed in boiling water for half an hour, dried and greased with oil.

Corrosion of magnesium

The alloys of magnesium are not attacked by water if 1% potassium bichromate is dissolved in the water.

Protect aluminum against corrosion

Chlorinated water with 0.5% sodium metasilicate
of
Bromine water with 5% sodium metasilicate.

The newer methods, covering with an oxide layer by means of an electric current in oxalic acid or chromic acid solutions, are all still patented (in 1936).

Etching aluminum reflectors

Water at 45℃	930		dl
Hydrofluoric acid (48%)	70		dl

Wash and pickle with nitric acid 1 : 1.

Protect iron from rust

Objects that are not handled and, for example, iron objects that are sent by sea, are greased with a solution of lanolin in naphtha, for example 1: 1 or 1: 2. The objects are first thoroughly cleaned by sandblasting or by acid pickling and then galvanized in the following bath:

Sodium cyanide	4	dl
Zinc ferrocyanide	5	dl
Sodium hydroxide	4	dl
Sublimate a little
Water	130	dl

The current is 2.5 A per square decimetre, voltage 5 V and zinc anodes containing 0.5% mercury.

After this, the objects are washed and dipped in the following solution:

Nickel chloride	30	dl
Ammonium chloride	40	dl
Sodium sulfocyanide	15	dl
Zinc chloride	4	dl
Water	1000	dl

The objects now turn black and are then painted or oiled.

Small objects can be dipped in the following solution:

Ferrous chloride	2	dl
Sublimate	2	dl
Water	96	dl

It is allowed to dry, heated to 100℃ and immersed in boiling water.

The best method to keep iron stainless is to coat it with a layer of phosphate. This method, which has been patented on several sides, boils the objects with a solution containing phosphoric acid, iron phosphate and manganese phosphate.

Rust remover

Orthophosphoric acid	35	dl
Water	30	dl
Ethyl methyl ketone	10	dl
Glycol ethyl ether	25	dl
or:
Stannic chloride	100	dl
Tartaric acid	2	dl
Water	4000	dl

Derusting of iron

Spindle oil	65	dl
Paraffin	15	dl
Pumice stone powder	20	dl

The rusted iron is rubbed with this ointment, or with a solution of it in kerosene; after some time the rust can be easily removed mechanically.

The agent below has a reducing effect on rust

Tin chloride	10	dl
Sublimate (poison)	2	dl
Water	1000	dl

And also the following mixture:

Caustic soda (NaOH) 5%	100		dl
Zinc dust	10		dl

Grease against rusting of metal

Neutral Petroleum Grease	100	dl
Zinc chromate powder	3	dl
Crude pyridine	1	dl
The mixture is finely ground on a paint mill.

Lanolin	50		dl
White spirit	50-200		dl

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