logo-mix-and-stir
[Home] → [Tech: Glass]

DIY glass etching, enameling, how to make glass and more...

History and development of glass

The ancient Egyptians already knew the glass in the time of the pyramids. They blew and shaped it by hand and colored it with metal compounds. About 200 BC. glass came to Rome and the Romans improved the method of glass blowing considerably. In the Middle Ages, the art of glass mosaic flourished in Byzantium and Venice, and in the 10th century the first glassworks arose in Bohemia and Bavaria.

Today's crystal glass originated in Bohemia and was later made in England from the highly refractive potash glass. In France, the casting and grinding of large mirror panes was invented towards the end of the 17th century.

glass blowing
The ordinary glass consists of soda and lime silicates, the hard glass of potassium-lime silicates and the crystal of lead-lime-potassium silicate. Countless special compounds are added to optical glass types and nowadays especially to the glass from which chemical devices are made. New is the imitation of precious stones by adding oxides of rare metals to the glass.

The glass therefore always consists of a mixture of a very large number of silicates. This explains why the molten glass does not crystallize on cooling and remains glassy. We must assume that the different compounds greatly slow down the crystallization rate on both sides. We can clearly see that this tendency to crystallize still exists when a large quantity of glass is poured into a block at a glass factory and can therefore only cool down very slowly. Here, after a few weeks, only crystallized material can be found and therefore no more glass. Every glass blower knows the phenomenon that when old glass tube is processed for the blowing flame, the tendency to crystallize is great and it is often not even possible to bend an old glass tube.

We must therefore regard glass as a supercooled liquid, the toughness of which has become so great that it gives the impression of a solid. When we keep glass for a long time just at the temperature where it softens, a large number of small crystals form, the glass becomes opaque, it deglazes and it now looks like porcelain. By pressing this devitrified glass into tiles, a very beautiful wall covering is obtained.

Suddenly dipping the hot glass into hot oil causes the glass to become extremely hard; this glass does not break easily, however, from a scratch it can suddenly shatter into a large number of small pieces, just like the well-known glass tears, which are obtained by dropping a drop of molten glass into water.

White glass is made from raw materials that contain as little iron as possible. By adding other coloring metal oxides, the green color of the iron is canceled out by complementary action. For colored glasses, coloring metal oxides are deliberately added, for opaque glasses, compounds are used which are insoluble in the glass melt, for example tin oxide for white milk glass.

By adding the different metal oxides it is possible to vary the properties of glass to infinity and it is therefore always possible to find a type of glass that is most suitable for a certain purpose.

A special type of glass is the enamel, which is used to cover metal or pottery. Enamel usually consists of an easily fusible lead-boric acid glass that is made opaque with insoluble compounds. In ancient Byzantium, later in China and Japan, and also in Europe in the Middle Ages, enamel was used to make very beautiful works of art, preferably by covering precious metals in a pattern with differently colored enamels. The colors are separated from each other by soldered edges of metal (émail cloisonné) or recessed places are engraved in the metal and filled with enamel (émail champlevé). To make enameled iron, which is used today for so many household items, one must first apply a layer of ground enamel to the iron, which adheres well to the iron and does not react with it.

Finally, by further developing the technique of melting at very high temperatures, it has also been possible to fuse the components of many precious stones together and to crystallize them on cooling. These real synthetic gemstones, which therefore have exactly the same composition as the real stones, are practically indistinguishable from them. The best-known artificial gemstone is the ruby, which is made by blowing a fine powder consisting of pure aluminum oxide and 2% chromium oxide through a firecracker flame onto a pin of refractory mass. The powder melts and solidifies on the refractory pin, immediately forming a crystal that continues to grow due to the newly added molten powder. Finally, a crystal has thus been obtained which often shatters on cooling and can be ground into decorative stones.

Glass etching

Hot water 19 ,0 dl
Ammonium difluoride 69 ,5 dl
Sodium fluoride 2 ,5 dl
Hydrofluoric acid 30% 9 ,0 dl
 or:
Hot water 18
dl
Ammonium difluoride 40
dl
Sodium fluoride 10
dl
Molasses 20
dl
Hydrogen fluoride 60% 18
dl
The components are mixed in a loaded container; stir well before use. Small glass objects can be placed in a copper basket and then submerged. Bottles must be closed with a rubber stopper; when the inside also becomes matte, they break very easily. Submerge for about 1 minute, allow to drain for 10 seconds and then rinse well with hot water. After this, one dips into the liquid again. If the object is not matt enough, the glass is left in the etching liquid longer.

Since the fumes of the etching acid are extremely dangerous, men should provide good ventilation. When the liquid reaches it can be strengthened with new hydrofluoric acid.

glass etching
glass etching

Etching masking compound

Asphalt 12 ,5 dl
Beeswax 4 ,5 dl
Ceresin 58 ,0 dl
Stearic acid 25 ,0 dl

Glass marking

It is very easy to mark glass with a water glass solution of 40° Bé. After drying it adheres fairly well and after a few weeks the dried water glass can be removed, as it has eaten away at the glass and thus etched it.

Glass etching ink

Hot water 12
dl
Ammonium difluoride 15
dl
Oxalic acid 8
dl
Ammonium sulfate 10
dl
Glycerin 40
dl
Barium sulfate 15
dl
If the ink does not adhere well enough, dilute with a little more water. By adding 2% sodium fluoride, the ink can sometimes be improved. The glass should be slightly preheated. The ink is stored in ebonite or lead bottles. Write with an ordinary steel pen, leave to act for 2 minutes and then wash off with hot water.

Etching glass with wood glue

An ordinary glue solution is first made by soaking wood glue in water overnight and then dissolving it in a water bath. Now add 6 dl alum to 100 dl dry glue and if necessary add enough water until the glue is about as thick as regular syrup.

This adhesive solution is now brushed onto the glass with a brush; this can be done with the aid of a template according to a specific drawing. After half an hour, another layer of glue is applied, so that a smooth, even layer is obtained. The glass is now left to dry in a warm room for 24 hours, until the glue is hard enough. Then the glass is placed in a drying chamber or drying cabinet, which is heated to 40°C. The glue will now jump off the glass and take the surface of the glass with it. This is done according to crystalline figures. The glass is now washed with warm water and dried.

Crystal glass

Lead red 75
dl
White sand, with hydrochloric


 acid cooked out 50
dl
Calcined Potash 18
dl
Calcined borax 6
dl
Arsenic (poison) 1
dl

The glass can be used to imitate diamond.

Crystal-glass-cut-like-a-diamond
Crystal glass cut like a diamond

Writing ink for glass

Bleached shellac 60
dl
Venetian turpentine 30
dl
Sandarak 8
dl
Turpentine oil 90
dl
Pigment 15
dl
As a pigment one can take carbon black, ultramarine blue, vermilion or chromate green.

Horak-glass

Sand 60-70
dl
Boric acid 15-30
dl
Potasch 1-2
dl
Soda 3-6
dl
Zirconium oxide 1-3
dl
Titanium dioxide 1-3
dl
This glass is particularly elastic and tolerates rapid temperature changes.

The following recipe also produces a very good type of glass:

Sand 70
dl
Boric acid 16-20
dl
Lit lead 10
dl
Iron oxide 5
dl

Ruby glass

The following is added to the glass melt:
Selenium 2
dl
Cadmium sulfide 1
dl
Arsenic trioxide 1
dl
Carbon ½
dl

Belgian mirror glass

White sand 500
dl
Sulfate 170
dl
Calcite 400
dl
Crushed coal 10
dl
Arsenic acid 2
dl

Bohemian mirror glass

Quartz 500
dl
Potasch 200
dl
Calcite 85
dl
Arsenic 1
dl

English mirror glass

White sand 500
dl
Sulfate 140
dl
Calcite 180
dl
Crushed coal 5
dl
Arsenic 5
dl

French mirror glass

White sand 500
dl
Lime 170
dl
Sulfate 190
dl
Crushed coal 5
dl
Arsenic 5
dl
French mirror
French mirror with silver decorated frame

German mirror glass

White sand 500
dl
Sodium sulfate 170
dl
Sodium carbonate 30
dl
Calcite 180
dl
Crushed coal 10
dl
Arsenic 5
dl

Glaze (acid-resistant)

Lead oxide 8
dl
Sodium oxide 1
dl
Iron oxide 1
dl
Quartz 15
dl
Boric acid (anhydrous) 4
dl

Lime glaze

Limestone 100
dl
Kaolin 26
dl
Calcined kaolin 245
dl
Sand 396
dl
Burn-in at Seger cone 13. The glaze is glossy.
- a matte glaze:
Limestone 100
dl
Kaolin 26
dl
Calcined kaolin 112
dl
Sand 96
dl
Burn-in at Seger cone 11.
Both glazes are resistant to chemical and mechanical impact.

Magnesia lime glaze

Calcined magnesite 19
dl
Limestone 78
dl
Kaolin 26
dl
Calcined kaolin 45
dl
Sand 144
dl

Vitreous enamel

Borax 240
dl
Potasch 410 dl
Potassium nitrate 30
dl
Sodium carbonate 120
dl
Calcite 30
dl
Quartz 170
dl
Merge, break and finely grind, mix with 60 parts of coloring agents and 20 parts of zirconium oxide.
Vintage enamel ring
Vintage enamel ring

Colored enamel for jewelry

Red:
 Cassius' purple 6
dl
 Crystal glass 30
dl
 Borax 4
dl
Blue:
 Crystal glass 34
dl
 Borax 6
dl
 Cobalt oxide 4
dl
 Bone black 4
dl
 Arsenic acid 2
dl
Green:
 Crystal glass 80
dl
 Copper oxide 4
dl
 Borax 2
dl
Dark green:
 Crystal glass 30
dl
 Borax 8
dl
 Copper oxide 4
dl
 Bone black 4
dl
 Arsenic acid 2
dl
Black:
 Crystal glass 30
dl
 Borax 8
dl
 Copper oxide 4
dl
 Ferric oxide 3
dl
 Cobalt oxide 4
dl
 Manganese oxide 4
dl
White:
 Crystal glass 30
dl
 Stannic oxide 6
dl
 Borax 6
dl
 Arsenic acid 2
dl

Enamelling of iron and steel

Enameling is the melting and bonding of a layer of glassy mass. It is clear that the quality of the final product depends not only on the quality of the enamel itself, but above all on the way in which the enamel adheres to the metal. When enamelling, the preparation of the metal is paramount; the iron must be absolutely clean, rust-free and grease-free.

Usually the iron is heated to glowing heat, where the fat and possibly carbonaceous residues burn completely. This annealing must therefore take place in such a way that the entire surface of the object can sufficiently come into contact with the air. The objects must therefore be suspended in the annealing furnace in such a way that the objects do not lie or hang on top of each other. This method is mainly used for a large number of relatively small objects. Since rusting occurs during annealing, one should not glow longer than absolutely necessary.

In addition, degreasing with boiling soda solution is also used, possibly lye or potash is used. After degreasing, it must be thoroughly washed with clean water.

After degreasing, all rust is removed by dipping the objects in diluted acid. One takes dilute hydrochloric acid or dilute sulfuric acid. Large objects are usually derusted with the sandblast, creating an ideal surface for the enamel.

enamelling-oven
Enamelling oven
The raw materials for an enamel are now mixed as intensively as possible. After all, the better mixed, the easier a mixture melts, since every high-melting particle then finds the low-melting substances next to it with which it can combine. In addition, the ingredients must be extremely finely ground.

The mixture is now melted, and as quickly as possible, as certain components, which make the enamel opaque, should not come into contact with the hot melt for too long.

To speed up the melting, alkalis such as borax are usually added, which melt very slowly and then either dissolve or chemically attack the other ingredients. So one melts until the mass is sufficiently homogeneous and has not formed into a transparent glass. In this case, the mass as enamel is unusable.

The molten mass is now allowed to cool and the glass is ground to certain finenesses. Again, care must be taken here. The fineness depends on the way in which the enamel is applied later. Certain types of enamel must remain fairly coarse, while others are ground considerably finer.

numberplate-enamel
Numberplate-enamel
The finely ground enamel, frit, is now usually stirred into a thin paste with water and a small amount of white clay. This paste is then applied in a uniformly thick layer by ironing on or by dipping onto the object to be enamelled. This porridge must now have very specific properties. The addition of 5 to 10% plastic clay makes the paste too thin and it does not adhere sufficiently to the iron. A flocculant is now added, for which one usually takes borax, for coatings of magnesium sulfate. Borax must be used for the primers, as all other salts cause the iron to rust.

It is clear that when steel is dipped into the enamel slurry, the liquid enamel has a tendency to run off; if the porridge is too thick, the layer will be uneven. Experience must point to the right middle ground here. Also, the heavy enamel must not settle, as the composition then changes. It is clear that experience and expertise play the leading role here. The same is the case with the application of the enamel. The wide variety of objects to be enameled makes it impossible to indicate exactly how to treat a particular object.

The vast majority of objects are dipped. It is the task of the craftsman to distribute the enamel as evenly as possible after dipping by shaking and turning the object. This is especially important for the substrate. If the first layer is evenly applied and burned in, the object cannot easily fail during further finishing. The enamel paste must be fairly thick and short for this, so it must not run off by itself.

With very simple and flat objects, the enamel paste is often made so thin that it runs off by itself and leaves a layer of a certain thickness. The objects are therefore dipped in the porridge and then placed almost perpendicularly against a support, so that the excess runs off.

For large objects and especially those with complicated shapes, sharp edges and cavities, the enamel paste is sprayed in an even layer on the surface. Here too, the properties of the email must be adapted to the method.

beker-emaille
The fourth method consists in dusting the dry material onto the moistened object. This method is mainly used for large cast iron objects and for chemical equipment, as it is no longer necessary to add foreign matter to the frit. The resistance to chemicals is therefore considerably greater. Sometimes an adhesive is added to the moistening water to prevent the enamel powder from coming loose again during drying. However, this adhesive later burns completely.

The coatings are applied in the same way. In general, enamel layers are kept as thin as possible, but so thick that they cover sufficiently.

The drying must now take place very quickly, but not too quickly, as small cracks will then appear. Especially when the enamel paste contains salts, the risk of rusting is very high and the rust stains cannot be made to disappear again. In addition, white enamel in particular must be dried as quickly as possible, as when wet, dust from the air easily adheres and causes dark dots.

The objects must be placed very accurately in the drying oven. The air circulation must be good so that no drops of condensed water run over the enamel and cause streaks. The dried objects must now be handled very carefully, as any impact may cause the enamel to come loose. However, the error only appears after burning.

The burning of small objects and white enamel takes place in muffle furnaces, the burning of large objects and dark enamel in open flame furnaces. The objects are placed on the sharpest possible iron points of a grid, so that the enamel comes into contact with the iron with the smallest possible spots. A kiln is filled with objects of as uniform size and thickness as possible, since the duration of the burning differs too much. The quality of the enamel depends very much on the filling of the ovens. Thick metal parts not only burn much more slowly themselves, but also absorb the heat from the immediate surroundings. A thin object that has been standing near this may have remained too cold and therefore not cooked.

The burning temperature depends entirely on the composition of the enamel and is tested in a small test for new types of enamel. muffle furnace determined.


Refractory crucibles

Flakes of graphite 21
dl
Silicon carbide 45
dl
Flintstone 11
dl
Borax 5
dl
Tar 18
dl
refractory crucible
Refractory crucible




disclaimer | w3schools | GFDL | GoodFon.com | pixabay | lookandlearn.com | pexels |pinterest | pxhere.com | unsplash.com
Test
We decline all responsibility with regard to errors in the information, in the translation, possible harmfulness of mentioned substances and possible harmful consequences of working with these substances or of following the translated recipes on this website. For more information you read the disclaimer.
copyright © 2023 -
mixandstir.com - all rights reserved