The metal that is electrolytically refined must be cleaned very carefully beforehand. In general, the pre- and post-treatment of the workpiece is just as important as the electrolysis itself during galvanizing.
In some cases it is possible to apply a thin layer of metal without using an electric current; however, the resulting layers only meet very moderate requirements.
Stannous chloride | 15 | dl | |
Ammonium sulfate | 15 | dl | |
Magnesium powder | 3 | dl | |
Chalk white | 67 | dl |
Nickel double salt | 60 | dl | |
Magnesium powder | 3 | dl | |
Chalk white | 37 | dl |
Zinc dust | 45 | dl | |
Ammonium sulfate | 15 | dl | |
Magnesium powder | 3 | dl | |
Chalk white | 37 | dl |
It is clear that the surface before electroplating, if a smooth glossy layer is desired, must also be as cleanly smooth if possible. Already when finishing with cutting tools, so when turning, milling and drilling, care should be taken not to make scratches that are too deep. These are first ground away with coarse grinding powder or with grinding wheels and then polished.
Objects containing large amounts of rust and solid adherent dirt are best treated first with a sandblaster, small objects can be placed in a roller drum with sand treated; for very hard material, roll with amaryl or carborundum powder. The very coarse dirt is first removed with a wire brush.
When the scratches have disappeared, polish further with a cloth or felt disc. on which a paste is smeared, which consists of grease and a very fine polishing agent. Less hard polishing agents are used here, such as tripel, Viennese lime, polishing red (dead head) etc.
When polishing, the speed mainly depends on the composition of the discs; the better the material, the greater the number of revolutions the wheel can withstand without flying apart and the more economical the polishing. In addition, the wear of the disc material too quickly indicates that a polishing agent that is too soft has been used. People then polished with the rags and not with the paste.
In practice, a series of discs is always used for finishing objects made of hard material, such as steel. One starts with a hard disk with a slightly coarser polishing material, the next one is softer and grinds finer, then some wiping disks with paste follow. It is clear that one cannot give precise instructions for this. The best result is obtained when one has a large number of different discs in his workshop, so that one can choose the most suitable for a certain purpose.
All greases can be removed with the help of organic solvents. It makes no difference whether they are saponifiable or unsaponifiable. Petrol, low or higher boiling, is used for this purpose, but nowadays more and more non-flammable chlorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorethylene or carbon tetrachloride, possibly also a mixture of these with petrol, are used. However, it is not possible to completely remove the fat in one operation; after all, some of the solution always remains on the workpiece and when the solvent evaporates, there are always traces of grease on the metal; these residues must then be washed away with clean solvent. To avoid this, devices have been constructed in which the solvent is boiled. The vapors are condensed in a cooler and the refluxing solvent then rinses the objects completely clean. In this case, a non-flammable solvent must be used. Today, trichlorethylene is commonly used, which is not as easily decomposed by trace moisture as carbon tetrachloride.
While people used to work almost exclusively with calcined soda, the soda is now wholly or partly replaced by newer alkaline salts such as trisodium phosphate and sodium metasilicate, which clean better and faster because they emulsify oil and fat very easily. The caustic soda is still used, because it saponifies the fats and therefore dissolves very easily. All alkaline salts saponify fat to a greater or lesser extent. For this reason, saponifiable fats should preferably be used as binding agents for polishing pastes.
If the objects to be degreased contain aluminium, zinc, tin or lead, the methods described above with alkaline solutions cannot be used. Lye and potash in particular should be avoided completely, as the zinc and aluminum dissolve very easily in them. During cathodic electrolytic cleaning, caustic always forms and the metals dissolve in it, while zinc is sometimes deposited on the side, as a result of which the layers applied later can easily come off. In this case, the object must be made an anode for a short time, so that the foreign metal is dissolved again.
In addition, it is possible to purify the objects electrolytically by making them an anode in certain solutions. Here the surface is cleaned because the top layer goes into solution, so it is pickled; the dirt will then come loose on its own. This method is often used for brass and copper.
A simple degreasing solution may consist of a 6 pc solution of calcined soda or a 3 pc solution of sodium metasilicate. 1% soap and 1% sodium hydroxide are then added to both solutions. The soap is not used for electrolytic cleaning.
For degreasing very large quantities, the largest amounts of grease are usually removed by boiling in a strong lye solution, the last residues are then dissolved electrolytically. Here, a treatment of 3 to 4 minutes is sufficient.
After degreasing, the objects are carefully rinsed with clean water.
Usually, oxides and rust are removed by dissolving them in acids. Iron and steel are usually pickled with sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid, brass and copper with nitric acid.
When copper or brass is completely clean and polished, it is dipped for a very short time in a solution of:Concentrated sulfuric acid | 425 | cm³ |
Strong nitric acid | 75 | cm³ |
Water | 500 | cm³ |
Strong sulfuric acid | 375 | cm³ |
Strong nitric acid | 75 | cm³ |
Water | 550 | cm³ |
After pickling, the objects must be rinsed carefully and immediately afterwards they are hung in the electroplating bath, with the current already switched on. The latter is necessary as in some acid baths the solution would immediately begin to dissolve some of the metal. The time the object is exposed to air between rinsing and electrolysis should be as short as possible. The cleaner the metal is, the more sensitive it is to oxidation.
In many cases, cleaning can be simplified. For example, if the metal is particularly well polished to a high gloss, pickling can often be omitted; the oxides are then already completely gone, while further oxidation has been prevented by the fats of the polishing paste. This grease is then removed with lye or solvent and electroplating can be carried out immediately afterwards. This method is often possible in chrome plating, as the highly oxidizing chromic acid burns small residues. Sometimes, however, it gives rise to serious errors.
It is not necessary to pickle on high-gloss polished brass if you add a little potassium cyanide (heavy poison) to the degreasing liquid; this potassium cyanide completely dissolves the oxide residues. However, this method cannot be used with copper.
In certain cases, pickling with acid can be the cause of serious errors. With iron, carbon can form on the surface, which prevents the layers from bonding, or hydrogen is absorbed, which makes the metal layers very brittle and also does not adhere and can be completely peeled off after some time; this used to be very common, especially in nickel plating. In recent years it has been learned to avoid these errors by completely removing the gas after pickling by electrolysis in strong sulfuric acid using the object as anode at 12 volts. They start with 5 amps per square decimetre and after 30 seconds to 10 minutes the current strength drops to virtually zero, the gas is then completely gone. Although the metal becomes passive, this does not affect the adhesion of the electrolytically applied metal layer.
Another method consists of pickling with solutions containing chromic acid or bichromates. Solutions of chrome plating that have become unusable are extremely suitable for this purpose.
Chromic acid | 22 | dl | |
Chromium sulfate | 5 | dl | |
Water | 100 | dl | |
At 35 degrees Celsius with a current of 50 amps per square decimeter with a graphite cathode. With a chromium cathode, the current is only 10 amps per square decimetre. or: Chromic acid 245 g per liter Chromium sulfate 3 g per liter Anodes: two chromium rods Cathodes: iron Temperature 15 degrees Celsius Voltage: 2 to 3 Volts time two hours. |
Nickel ammonium sulfate | 60 | dl | |
Nickel sulfate | 30 | dl | |
Boric acid | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
The pH of the solution is maintained at 5.8. The solution is maintained at a strength of 25 g of nickel per liter by adding from time to time as much nickel double salt to the solution as is lacking according to the analysis. The nickel anodes used must contain at least 99% pure nickel and no more than 0.3% copper. The current and voltage depend entirely on the type of objects to be nickel-plated, on average 25 amps at 6 Volts for one hour. |
Nickel sulfate | 30 | dl | |
Nickel ammonium sulfate | 90 | dl | |
Magnesium sulfate | 15 | dl | |
Boric acid | 20 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Nickel ammonium sulfate | 60 | dl | |
Sodium sulfocyanate | 15 | dl | |
Zinc sulfate | 8 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Cyan sodium (poison) | 70 | dl | |
Cadmium oxide | 22 | dl | |
Sodium hydroxide | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Recipe no. 1. | |||
Silver cyanide | 40 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 40 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
Prebath: | |||
Silver cyanide | 4 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 60 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
The articles are degreased with an alkaline solution, washed and made free of oxides with a cyanide solution, washed and then silver-plated slightly in the preliminary bath at 6 Volts. The object then enters the actual silvering solution and remains in the bath for 30 minutes at a voltage of 2 Volts. Then wash with cold and warm water, finally dry in the heat. |
|||
Recipe no. 2. | |||
Silver cyanide | 26 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 38 | dl | |
Ammonium chloride | 4 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
of: | |||
Silver chloride | 26 | dl | |
Ammonium chloride | 4 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
One works at 24 degrees Celsius with ¾ to 1 Volts and ½ amps per square decimetre. With the second solution whiter silver layers are obtained. One can also use the pre-bath mentioned above with good results. |
Gold as fulminate or cyanide | 2 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 15 | dl | |
Sodium Phosphate | 8 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
It is operated at 130° to 160°F (55 to 70°C) with 1 V voltage and pure gold as anode. |
|||
Gold chloride | 75 | dl | |
Hydrochloric acid | 75 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
At room temperature and 2 to 3 V. The gold chloride is first dissolved in the diluted hydrochloric acid and then the rest of the water is added. The acidity of the solution does not affect the result much; the anodes are dissolved more quickly with stronger acid. This solution is used to apply very thick layers of gold. The object is then placed in a cyanide bath for a few minutes beforehand. |
|||
Without electric current one can gild by immersing the objects in the following bath: |
|||
Gold fulminate | 1 | ,5 | dl |
Yellow blood lye salt | 90 | dl | |
Soda | 180 | dl | |
Sodium hydroxide | 4 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
The solution is boiled in a cast iron tank. Before use, the solution is allowed to cool to 80℃. The color of the applied gold can be darkened by adding a small amount of a solution of copper carbonate in yellow blood lye salt solution to the bath. |
Yellow blood lye salt | 120 | dl | |
Sodium Phosphate | 60 | dl | |
Sodium carbonate | 30 | dl | |
Sodium sulfite | 15 | fl | |
Gold as fulmiate | 1 | ,25 | dl |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Gold as fulmiate | |||
(Cyanide) | 1 | ,5 | dl |
Silver cyanide | 0 | ,12 | dl |
Sodium cyanide | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Yellow blood lye salt | 30 | dl | |
Potash | 30 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 2 | dl | |
Gold as fulminate | 4 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
Temperature 80℃, 6 V. If the color should be more red, add a small amount of copper carbonate. Cheap red gold is obtained by first treating the objects, which must be made of brass, in the following solution until a red copper layer is formed: |
Copper sulfate | 120 | dl | |
Hydrochloric acid | 500 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
If the layer is too dark red, it can be lightened slightly by dipping the object in a solution of table salt for a few seconds. The gold is then gilded for a short time in an ordinary gold solution, the high parts are treated with a bicarbonate solution, again placed in the gold bath, but only for a few seconds, and then allowed to dry. Lacquered after drying. |
Sulfuric acid | 90 | dl | |
Sodium bichromate | 30 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Yellow blood lye salt | 15 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 60 | dl | |
Acid potassium tartrate | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Ferrous Chloride | 300 | dl | |
Calcium Chloride | 150 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
Temperature 90°C, 4 to 5 A per square decimetre, 2 to 2½ V, pH 1.5 to 2, pure iron anodes. This bath is used to apply very thick layers. Thin layers are applied as follows: 120 g of salmiak (ammonium chloride) are dissolved in a liter of water and this solution is added to the electroplating tank. One takes: pure iron as an anode and hangs some arbitrary iron objects in the tank. A strong current is now passed through the bath for several hours, causing iron to dissolve until the solution is sufficiently strong. The bath can be used after about 4 to 5 hours. One then works at 26°C, with 0.2 A per square decimetre and with 1 V voltage. |
Lead carbonate | 150 | dl | |
Hydrogen fluoride (50%) | 250 | dl | |
Boric acid | 100 | dl | |
Glue | 0,25 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
The hydrofluoric acid is first mixed with the boric acid and the lead carbonate is dissolved therein. The solution is allowed to cool and the precipitate is allowed to settle, the clear solution is then siphoned off and diluted. Only after this is added the glue, which was previously dissolved in hot water. Pure lead anodes with 3 to 4 V and a current of 1 to 2 A per square decimetre are used. For thin layers of lead, the following solution is taken: |
|||
Lead carbonate | 15 | dl | |
Sodium hydroxide | 45 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
Temperature 80℃, 3 to 4 V and lead anodes. |
Copper cyanide | 30 | dl | |
Zinc cyanide | 8 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 45 | dl | |
Sodium carbonate | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
This solution gives a pure yellow layer of brass. When the coating is to be greenish, as it is often required as an undercoat for gilding and for highly lustrous coatings in cheap jewels with imitation stones, take 30 g less of copper cyanide and 30 g of sodium cyanide and add a little ammonia to the solution.
When electroplating with brass, the temperature must be kept precisely constant. The color also depends on the current strength; too high current. deposits more zinc. The same effect can be achieved by adding ammonia or lye.
Copper cyanide | 30 | dl | |
Zinc cyanide | 8 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 45 | dl | |
Sodium carbonate | 15 | dl | |
Sodium Potassium Tartrate | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
Temperature 25° to 30°C, 0.3 A per square decimeter, anodes consist of 80% copper and 20% zinc. |
Copper cyanide | 30 | dl | |
Zinc cyanide | 4 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 40 | dl | |
Sodium carbonate | 15 | dl | |
Sodium Potassium Tartrate | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl | |
Temperature 35℃, 0.2 to 0.25 A per square decimeter, 2 to 3 V, anodes consist of 90% copper and 10% zinc. To supplement copper and zinc in use, two solutions are made, one of zinc cyanide in sodium cyanide and one of the copper cyanide separately. The two metals are never used up evenly. Through an analysis or better by assessing the color you can see which metal to add. It is a curious fact that when a zinc solution is added to the brass bath, it takes a very long time for the color to remain constant. The sodium-potassium tartrate dissolves the oxides that form on the anodes. As a result, the electrolysis proceeds more evenly. For the even deposition of copper and zinc in the desired ratio, the current must not be too high, the solution must contain sufficient sodium cyanide, the temperature must be high enough and the solution must not contain ammonia or caustic. The shine of the brass and bronze layers can be increased by adding a small amount of sodium arsenite to the bath. A concentrated solution is made by dissolving 1 kg of sodium hydroxide in 2 liters of water. 500 g of arsenic (poison) is then dissolved in this by boiling and the solution is then diluted to 4 l. 30 g of this extremely dangerous, highly toxic solution is then added to 400 l of bath liquid. An excess is extremely bad, as the shine then disappears. A bronze solution contains less and less cyanide than a brass solution. The color must be set by choosing the correct ratio of zinc to copper and by working at the correct temperature. |
Copper cyanide | 26 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 34 | dl | |
Sodium carbonate | 15 | dl | |
Sodium hyposulphite | 0,25 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Copper carbonate | 40 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 75 | dl | |
Sodium hyposulphite | 0,25 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
The bath should not contain too much free cyanide, as gases will then be evolved and the copper will detach from the substrate. However, sufficient cyanide must be present to keep the anodes blank. No basic copper salts should be deposited on the anode. The dark color, which is created by the hyposulphite, may remain. The bath should contain about 20 g of copper and about 20 g of free sodium cyanide per litre.
Pockmarked copper deposits are caused by too high a carbonate content. The excess carbonate can be removed with barium chloride. The barium carbonate is allowed to settle and the clear solution is drained off. Some carbonate must remain in the solution, otherwise the precipitates become too hard.
Copper sulfate | 210 | dl | |
Sulfuric acid | 25 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
By adding a slightly alkaline lead solution to the copper cyanide solution, the luster of the copper is considerably increased. In fresh baths, the copper layer is sometimes very hard and flakes off. This can be prevented by adding 1% lye to the solution
Acid solution | |||
Zinc sulfate | 225 | ,5 | dl |
Ammonium chloride | 15 | dl | |
Sodium Acetate | 15 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Zinc cyanide | 30 | dl | |
Sodium cyanide | 30 | dl | |
Sodium hydroxide | 22 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Pure zinc anodes are used with both solutions. To obtain a fine structure, 10 g of glucose per liter of bath liquid are added.
The acidic solution works cheaper, but the distribution of the deposited metal is more uneven. The spreading of the acidic solution can be improved by adding a trace of stannous chloride, too much spoils the colour. The acidity should be kept at a pH of 3.5 to 4.5; the acidity can be checked with thymol blue.
In the cyanide bath the content of free sodium cyanide should be about as much as the content of zinc, an excess makes the metal layer rough.
To avoid stains, the galvanized objects must be carefully washed and dried; wash with hot water and dry in sawdust.
Sodium hydroxide | 90 | dl | |
Stannous chloride | 30 | dl | |
Sodium chloride | 8 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
The objects to be tinned are placed in brass baskets, separated by sheets of perforated tin. The objects remain in the boiling solution for 15 to 30 minutes, at least until they are completely tinned. After this they are cleaned with water and dried in wood sawdust.
The gloss can be increased by treating with hardwood sawdust in a roller drum for some time.
Nitric acid | 2 dl |
Water | 1 dl |
Sodium cyanide | 60 | dl | |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Sulfuric acid | 8 dl |
Nitric acid | 4 dl |
Water | 1 dl |
Hydrochloric acid | a trace |
Sulfuric acid | 7,2 | dl | |
Nitric acid | 5,6 | dl | |
Zinc oxide | 1,0 | dl |
Silver, which has been annealed, is cleaned by placing it in a hot dilute sulfuric acid solution, 1 dl of acid to 3 dl of water. This is followed by a completely clean burning in a solution of 2 dl sulfuric acid, 1 dl nitric acid and 5 dl water. Finally, it is made shiny again in the gloss solution.
While metal is dissolved in an electrical element, the metal can be separated from a saline solution by passing an electric current through it. Electroplating is based on this fact, i.e. the deposition of a layer of metal on another metal or on a surface made conductive.
In the year 1836, De la Rive saw that the copper, which deposited the usual elements on the copper plate at the time, could be detached from it and then microscopically showed exactly all the irregularities of the substrate, so it was a negative print. In the course of several years, the ground operations for electroplating and galvanic reproduction were now discovered. Jacobi and Spencer invented the multiplication of objects by means of electroplating, in 1840 Elkington built a factory for silver plating in Birmingham, in 1840 making conductive by means of graphite powder was discovered, in the course of the following years nickel plating, gilding and silver plating with cyanides discovered.
In addition, the purpose of galvanoplasty is to obtain a metal impression of a certain object or surface. It is clear that galvanoplasty plays a major role in graphic arts.
The preparation of the surface to be galvanized plays a major role in galvanostegy. The surface must be ground and polished smooth, ensuring that it remains absolutely clean and, above all, grease-free. In addition, the metal is also cleaned by pickling with acids. Since pickling with acids often produces extremely toxic fumes and gases, this operation must be carried out in a well-drafted fume cupboard or directly at a fan.
In galvanoplasty people like to work with shapes of metal, because they do not have to be made conductive first. For example, a low-melting alloy is poured onto woodcuts or a soft metal is pressed onto the object. Accurate molds can also be obtained by spraying metal according to Schoop.
With metal molds it must be ensured that the electroplated metal layer can also be easily removed from the substrate. To this end, a thin layer of graphite is applied, or the mold is greased slightly.
In addition, in many cases people work with non-metallic masses, for example wax, plaster, glue, celluloid and gutta percha. The surface of these prints must then be made conductive for the electric current by brushing in fine graphite powder.
When we dissolve sugar in water and we try to pass an electric current through this solution, we see that this solution still offers practically the same resistance as normal water, so it actually doesn't let anything through. However, if we dissolve the same amount of a salt, for example copper sulphate, in the water, we see that the solution obtained is an excellent conductor of the electric current. After a short time we see that copper is deposited on one wire. This principle of all galvanic techniques is based on the fact that when we dissolve a salt in water, we no longer actually have this salt, but a solution of two components of the salt, which are electrically charged. We call these two oppositely charged components of the salts ions. The magnitude of the charge is the same, otherwise the salt itself would have to be electrically charged. These ions now conduct electricity from one electrode to the other, so they carry the electrical charges through the water and release them. Once they have given off this charge, they are no longer ions, so take on normal chemical properties and separate at the electrodes. For example, we see that with copper sulfate at the cathode, the negative electrode, copper is separated, because the copper ion has released its positive charge to the negative electrode. The acid residue, i.e. the sulphate residue, is released at the anode, which, if the anode consists of copper, immediately recombines with copper to form copper sulphate and remains in solution. The end result is therefore that the copper is transported from the anode to the cathode.
Trisodium phosphate | 50 | dl |
Potassium cyanide (poison) | 50 | dl |
Copper cyanide | 50 | dl |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Nickel ammonium sulfate | 60 | dl |
Sodium sulfocyanate | 20 | dl |
Zinc sulfate | 10 | dl |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Petroleum | 12 | dl |
Oleic acid | 10 | dl |
Paint gasoline | 45 | dl |
Ammonia | 3 | dl |
Spirit | 2 | dl |
Tripel | 28 | dl |
The preparation becomes non-flammable when the petrol is replaced by carbon tetrachloride.
Tallow | 24 | dl |
Paraffin oil | 66 | dl |
Castor oil Ia | 6 | dl |
Ceresin | 18 | dl |
Graphite powder | 6 | dl |
Copper powder | 1 | dl |
In the same way one can also make impressions of lace and fabric.
Fine prints can also be made with thin stanniol. The thin smooth stanniol is pressed onto the object, then molten wax is dripped onto the stanniol and allowed to cool. After cooling, the excess stanniol is cut off down to a strip and a copper wire is attached to this strip, which serves to supply the electric current during copper plating.
Water | 100 | dl |
Copper sulphate | 20 | dl |
Sulfuric acid (pure) | 3 | dl |
Voltage 1-1.9 V / 1-2 A per square decimetre. |
Iron sulfate | 100 | dl |
Magnesium sulfate | 100 | dl |
Water | 1000 | dl |
Voltage 0.5-0.55 V / 0.2-0.25 A per square decimetre. |
Graphite | 5 | dl |
Pork fat | 2 | dl |
Colophonium | 1,5 | dl |
The mass is pressed onto the object at 100°C. | ||
Elastic Shapes: | ||
Asphalt | 6 | dl |
Oil foil | 9 | dl |
Gutta-percha | 20 | dl |
Wax molds: | ||
Beeswax | 40 | dl |
Venetian turpentine | 6 | dl |
Graphite | 1 | dl |
The surface of the molds is made conductive by rubbing it with graphite. This is too coarse for very fine objects, so a layer of silver is applied. For this purpose, a solution of silver oxide in ammonia is first coated, to which a solution of silver nitrate is mixed with enough ammonia to dissolve the first precipitate formed. The object is then suspended in formaldehyde vapors, whereby the silver oxide is reduced to metallic silver.