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Shaving products homemade
Make your own shaving cream, shaving soap, facial water and more according to the proven historical industrial recipes below.
Type recipe for shaving cream
Recipe (1936) |
Coconut fat |
9 dl |
Beef fat |
3 dl |
Stearic acid |
28 dl |
Sodium hydroxyde |
1 dl |
Potassium hydroxyde |
7 dl |
Glycerin |
10 dl |
Water |
45 dl |
The fats are melted together with the glycerin and then saponified with the caustic soda. The rest of the fat is now completely saponified with half of the total amount of caustic soda. The stearic acid is now melted and after adding the rest of the lye, enough stearic acid is added that the soap is completely neutral. Then a little stearic acid is added, so that the soap becomes weakly acidic. For this purpose one usually takes 3% stearic acid.
In the heat, this soap is quite thick. They can also be kept thinner so that they can be stirred more easily by working with a large excess of stearic acid. During cooling, the acid is then neutralized with the calculated amount of lye, calculated with a small surplus of acid.
note: Read the safety instructions about working with aggressive substances, such as sodium hydroxyde and potassium hydroxyde (caustic soda's)
Recipe (1936) |
Stearic acid |
40 dl |
Coconut fat |
10 dl |
potassium hydroxide in water 38° Bé |
23 dl |
sodium hydroxide in water 38° Bé |
6 dl |
Glycol stearate |
4 dl |
note: |
Read the safety instructions about working with aggressive substances |
The fats are saponified at 70°C. Since the reaction proceeds fairly quickly, the lye can be added at a rapid rate.
The glycol stearate is then added to the hot soap mass and the whole mass is allowed to stand for several hours. The soap remains warm due to the ongoing saponification process and must be stirred every hour.
The hard but sticky soap now has to be dried, pressed into the desired shape and wrapped in silver paper.
Shaving soap
There are many requirements for a good shaving soap. Moreover, personal taste plays a major role here. Human skin is often so sensitive that small differences in otherwise very good soaps are experienced as unpleasant. The soap creams generally contain:
Recipe (early 1930's) |
Soap |
40 dl |
Water |
50 dl |
Glycerin |
10 dl |
The glycerin keeps the foam moist longer; a foam that dries too quickly would make shaving almost impossible.
For quick soaping, the soap must be very easily soluble. However, this causes the foam to be dissolved too easily by any newly added water. So here you have to choose a mixture of highly soluble and less soluble soap. The fats that make an easily soluble and highly foaming soap include coconut oil and palm oil. They make it possible to shave with cold water, but they irritate the skin quite strongly. In general, people therefore do not take more than 10 to 15% of these fats. Furthermore, fats such as beef tallow and stearin are taken. Large amounts of behenic acid are added for a very tough foam.
The consistency of the cream depends not only on the amount of water, but mainly on the correct ratio between the potash and caustic soda. One should not take too much caustic soda, as the soap then becomes too hard and crumbly.
The caustic soda is usually dissolved to a strength of 20° Bé and the caustic soda to a strength of 35° Bé.
Visit at the Barber-shop
Shaving cream without foam
Recipe (early 1930's) |
Stearic acid |
50 dl |
Lanolin (anhydrous) |
9 dl |
Glycerin |
3 dl |
Triethanolamine |
1.5 dl |
Borax |
1.7 dl |
Water |
135 dl |
or: |
Stearin |
40 dl |
Lanolin |
7 dl |
Paraffin oil |
18 dl |
Glycerin |
3 dl |
Tiethanolamine |
3.3 dl |
Borax |
3.7 dl |
Water |
125 dl |
The stearic acid is melted together with the other fats or oils. It is heated to about 70℃. The other ingredients are dissolved in the water and heated to boiling. The melted fat mixture is then poured into the boiling solution while stirring well. Stir until the mass forms a completely uniform emulsion. The perfume is then added while cooling. Stir gently from time to time.
The first recipe produces a cream with a pearlescent sheen, which is especially suitable for oily skin. The second recipe produces a thicker cream that can be used by people with dry skin. Both creams very easily form a smooth layer on the face and have a soothing after-effect. Both are very easy to wash off.
Liquid shaving cream
Recipe (early 1930's) |
Stearic acid |
200 dl |
Triethanolamine |
10 dl |
Water |
800 dl |
or slightly thicker: |
Stearic acid |
200 dl |
Triethanolamine |
10 dl |
Anhydrous soda |
10 dl |
Water |
800 dl |
Facial water for after shaving
Recipe (1936) |
Menthol |
10 g |
Boric acid |
75 g |
Glycerin |
150 g |
Alcohol |
2500 g |
Water |
2-4 l |
Perfume as desired |
The menthol is first dissolved in alcohol, the boric acid and the glycerin in the water. After this, the solutions are mixed, perfumed and, if necessary, some coloring agent is added.
Skin water
Gently astringent (early 1900's)
Menthol |
12 dl |
Zinc phenol sulfonate |
225 dl |
Camphor |
12 dl |
Perfume |
25 dl |
Alcohol |
2700 dl |
The ingredients are dissolved in the alcohol. After this, 30000 dl hamamelis water (witch hazel water) is added.
Normally astringent (early 1900's)
Alcohol |
10000 dl |
Borax |
6 dl |
Zinc phenol sulfonate |
180 dl |
Camphor |
25 dl |
Perfume |
90 dl |
Glycerin |
1000 dl |
After the ingredients in the alcohol have completely dissolved, about 20000 dl of hamamelis water is added.
Strong astringent (early 1900's)
Alcohol |
15000 dl |
Ethylaminobenzoic acid |
24 dl |
Parachloro-metaxylenol |
24 dl |
Menthol |
24 dl |
Thymol |
12 dl |
Lavender oil |
135 dl |
Glycerin |
2400 dl |
Vanillin |
24 dl |
After dissolving the various components in the alcohol, dilute with approx. 17000 dl hamamelis water.
In addition to the ingredients mentioned here, small amounts of benzoin resin, Peru balsam or styrax can also be added. Glycerine can be replaced by glycol.
Mennen Skin Bracer (adv.1946)